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Tuesday, July 1, 2014

My hands can do this --- Crocheted Baby Bag Pack

Bags are very important to women to put one’s stuff in.  The kind of bag will vary depending on what style, color, and size each woman likes based on her needs only.  But when you have a baby,  you become more concerned about where to put baby’s things in one convenient big bag, especially when your family is on a short trip only.  That’s why I created this Crocheted Baby Bag Pack to make it easy to carry your baby’s basic needs.  It’s simply designed and combined with different techniques, like cross stitching and weaving. In addition, to make it look more cuter, it is accessorized with small fancy buttons, so your baby can be attracted to look and hold them at the same time.            



 Crocheted Baby Bag Pack (a)

Before her baby’s due date, I promised her that I will make a project for her baby on one condition only-- that she and her baby will be my models for this project.  I’m very happy that this became a reality after long months of waiting.  She looks beautiful with her handsome baby boy, isn't she?


CROCHETED BABY BAG PACK


Materials:
(1)  Red Heart worsted, 7 oz (light blue #0381) 
(1)  Caron Simply Soft 4 ply, acrylic, 6 oz (baby brights ombre)
(7)   fancy buttons
(6)   shirt buttons
       crochet hook size – F5 / 3.75
       yarn needle
       compass
       thick scrap cardboard 9 ¾ (W) X 10 (L)
       scissor
       ice pick
       safety pins

Level of Difficulty – easy

Stitch Abbreviations:
(ch)       chain                                                
(sc)       single crochet                                                
(dc)       double crochet
(sl st)    slip stitch
(sp)       space

Note: Always count the number of  stitches before doing the next row to avoid committing mistakes.

Instructions:  
Light Blue
1st Row – Make 71 (ch).  (Sc) on the 3rd (ch) from hook. (Sc) on succeeding 67 (ch).  (Sc) on last (ch).  Make (ch) and then turn around.
Result – 69 (sc)

2nd to   9th Rows -  (Sc) on first (sc).  (Sc) on succeeding 67 (sc).  (Sc) on last (sc).  Make (ch) and then turn around.
Result – 69 (sc)

10th Row -  (Sc) on first (sc).  (Sc) on succeeding 67 (sc).  (Sc) on last (sc).  Turn around.
Result – 69 (sc)

11th Row  - (Sl st) on first (sc).  3 (Ch) on same (sp).  (Dc) on succeeding 67 (sc).  (Dc) on last (sc).  Turn around.
Result – 69 (dc)

12th to   24th Rows – (Sl st) on first (dc).  3 (Ch) on same (sp).  (Dc) on succeeding 67 (dc).  (Dc) on last (dc).  Turn around.
Result – 69 (dc)

25th Row - (Sl st) on first (dc).  3 (Ch) on same (sp).  (Dc) on succeeding 67 (dc).  (Dc) on last (dc).  Make (ch) and then turn around.
Result – 69 (dc)

26th Row - (Sc) on first (dc).  (Sc) on succeeding 67 (dc).  (Sc) on last (dc).  Make (ch) and then turn around.
Result – 69 (sc)

27th  to 34th Rows - (Sc) on first (sc).  (Sc) on succeeding 67 (sc).  (Sc) on last (sc).  Make (ch) and then turn around.
Result – 69 (sc)
  
35th Row – (Sc) on first (sc).  (Sc) on succeeding 67 (sc).  (Sc) on last (sc).  Turn around.
Result – 69 (sc)

36th Row -  Repeat 11th Row.
Result – 69 (dc)

37th to 49th Rows – Repeat 12th to 24th Rows.
Result – 69 (dc)

50th Row – Repeat 25th Row.
Result – 69 (dc)

51st Row – Repeat 26th Row.
Result – 69 (sc)

52nd to 59th Rows – Repeat 27th to 34th Rows.
Result – 69 (sc)

60th Row – Repeat 35th Row.  Cut and tie it twice.
Result – 69 (sc)

Cross Stitching – Baby Brights Ombre
Both End Sides
1)     Cut 90 inches of yarn.    Insert one yarn end to the eye of the yarn needle to make cross stitch.  Go through the ridges for easy insertion of the needle.  This will be your guide in making cross stitches straight. Insert the needle on the end of the 3rd Row and tie its end twice.   


2)     Skip two (sc)  and insert the needle on the third (sc) of the 4th Row and pull.  Insert the needle on the first (sc) of the 4th Row and pull.  Insert the needle on the third (sc) of the 3rd Row.  This is the first cross stitch.  Insert the needle on the 3rd (sc) of the 4th Row and pull. Skip (sc) and insert the needle on the next (sc) of the 3rd Row and pull.  Insert the needle on the third (sc) of the 3rd Row and pull. Skip (sc) and insert the needle on the next (sc) of the 4th Row.  This is the second cross stitch. Just follow the same procedure of cross stitching until you reach the end. Cut and tie the yarn end twice. You will see how the front and back sides  look as shown below.   


Cross Stitch - Front Side


Cross Stitch - Back Side

3)     Repeat the instruction #1.
4)     Skip two (sc) and insert the needle on the third (sc) of the 8th Row and pull.  Insert the needle on the first (sc) of the 8th Row and pull.  Insert the needle on the third (sc) of the 7th Row.  This is the first cross stitch.  Insert the needle on the 3rd (sc) of the 8th Row and pull. Skip (sc) and insert the needle on the next (sc) of the 7th Row and pull.  Insert the needle on the third (sc) of the 7th Row and pull. Skip (sc) and insert the needle on the next (sc) of the 8th Row.  This is the second cross stitch. Just follow the same procedure of cross stitching until you reach the end. Cut and tie the yarn end twice.
5)     Work on the other end side.  Repeat steps 1 to 4.

Attaching Both Sides – Light Blue
1)     Cut 100 inches of yarn.  Hide the excess yarns on each side before you start. Have the project with the inner side faces you. Attach both side ends using a yarn needle.  Starting with the RIGHT SIDE, bring together the side ends with the inside part facing you. From its edge, insert the yarn needle into the 3rd (sc) of the last row passing through the other 3rd (sc) of the same row.  Pull and tie the end twice and hide the excess yarn.  Insert again the needle into the same (sp) and pull tightly.  Be sure the ridges are aligned with each other as you insert the needle. You will start attaching both sides like you are sewing. Insert the needle into the next (sc) and pass the needle through another (sc) on the other side of the same row and then pull tightly.  From the You have to look on the front and inner sides to see if they are really aligned to each other. Do the same procedure till you reach the last (sc).       

2)     Upon reaching the (dc) stitches,  insert the needle into the middle stitch of the 3rd (dc) passing through the middle of the 3rd (dc) of the other side and then pull tightly.  Insert the needle into the end of the (dc) and passing through another end of the (dc) on the other side and then pull tightly.  Be sure every row is aligned with each other as you insert the needle. You have to look on the front and inner sides to see if they are really aligned to each other.  Do the same procedure till you reach the last (dc). 

3)     Upon reaching the (sc) stitches,  insert the needle into the 3rd (sc) from the edge, passing through the 3rd (sc) of the other side and then  pull tightly.  Do the same procedure till you reach the last (sc).  Go back sewing the (sp) not yet run by the yarn. Don’t cut the yarn yet.

4)     Lay the project on the table and fold it into a triangle like the picture (a) shown below.  This will be only for a start to form the first corner end of the project.  There is no need to do this again when you work on the LEFT SIDE.   (Note: I placed a ruler and inserted the yarn needle to show where to begin sewing the side horizontally as in picture (b).  This will help you know the extend of sewing the side horizontally and make the bottom side edge flat.  Always look on the other side as you insert the needle to help you determine if your sewing is done straight or not. Insert the needle  in the middle passing through the (sc) where you can see  the straight ridge will form curved corners when it is already inverted. You can start sewing by going to the right.  Upon reaching the edge, go back sewing the (sp)s not yet run by the yarn going to the left.  Upon reaching the other edge, go back sewing the (sp)s not yet run by the yarn going to the middle.  Lastly, tie it twice, provide an excess yarn to hide it neatly, and then cut.  Invert the inner side of project and the corner side at the bottom will look like this  as shown in picture (c).



Attaching Both Sides (a)


Attaching Both Sides (b)


Attaching Both Sides (c)


5)     Repeat the procedures from 1 to 4 to join the LEFT SIDE.  Use the excess yarn left. 

Making of the Handles (2) – Light Blue and Baby Brights Ombre
Light Blue
1st Row -  Provide 2 inches excess yarn before starting. This will be used to attach it to the project. Don’t hide it.  Make 112 (ch).  (Sc) on 3rd (ch) from hook.  (Sc) on next 108 (ch).  (Sc) on last (ch).  Provide excess yarn, cut, and then tie it once.  Hide this together with the other yarn on the next row below.
Result – 110 (sc)
 
Baby Brights Ombre
2nd Row – Insert the yarn into the 1st (sc) and tie it once. Hide the excess yarns   as you begin crocheting. (Sl st) on same (sp).  (Ch) and (sc) on same (sp).  (Sc) on next 108 (sc).  (Sc) on last (sc).  (Ch) and then turn around.
Result – 110 (sc)

3rd Row – (Sc) on 1st (sc). (Sc) on next (sc). 4 (Ch), skip 2 (ch), and (sc) on next (ch).  This will be the first hole where to attach the first shirt button. (Sc) on next 3 (ch).  4 (Ch), skip 2 (ch), and (sc) on next (ch).  This will be the second hole where to attach the second shirt button. (Sc) on next 98 (sc). (Sc) on last (sc). (Ch) and then turn around. 
Result – 106 (sc) and 2 (4-ch sp)

4th Row – (Sc) on 1st (sc).  (Sc) on next 101 (sc).  2 (Sc) on (4-ch sp).  (Sc) on next 4 (sc).  2 (Sc) on next (4-ch sp).  (Sc) on last 2 (sc).  Provide excess yarn, cut, and then tie it once.
Result – 110 (sc)
  
Light Blue
5th Row – Insert the yarn into the 1st (sc) and tie it once. Hide the excess yarns  as you begin crocheting. (Sl st) on the same (sp).  (Ch) and (sc) on same (sp).  (Sc) on next 108 (sc).  (Sc) on last (sc).  Provide excess yarn of the same measurement as the first excess yarn of the 1st Row. Cut  and then tie it twice.  Leave the excess yarns to be used for attaching it to the project later.  Set aside and make another handle.
Result – 110 (sc)

Making of a Tie – Light Blue and Baby Brights Ombre
1) Set the compass to 4.5 measurement and make a round shape pattern. Cut it and put a mark on its center.  Using a ruler, draw 8 straight lines with equal spacing by passing through its center and extending to the circumference of the circle.  Using an ice pick, poke a hole on its center and make a short slit along each straight line.  This is a loom to weave the tie and looks like this as shown in picture (d).


Making of a Tie (d)


2) Cut 70 inches of baby brights ombre and light blue yarns 4X each.  Make adjustment to the size of the hole to insert all the yarns, if necessary. Don’t make it too big. Using your crochet hook, bring all together all the yarn ends into the hole and tie a knot at the bottom leaving 4 inches excess yarns hanging. There will be a North and South sides in this weaving loom.  Start inserting the baby brights ombre yarns with 2 yarns on the North side and 2 yarns on the South side.  Turn the loom clockwise.  Start inserting the light blue yarns with 2 yarns on the North side and 2 yarns on the South side.  Starting point for weaving the tie will look like this as shown in picture (e) and the bottom side as shown in picture (f).


Making of a Tie (e)


Making of a Tie (f)

3) Baby Brights Ombre - Hold the loom and transfer clockwise the first yarn of the North and right sides to where the light blue yarn is inserted near the baby brights ombre yarn in the South side.  This will serve as a guide to know that this will be the last yarn to complete the turn. Transfer clockwise the second yarn of the North / left side to where its first yarn left.  Transfer clockwise the first yarn of South / left side to the North side where its second yarn left. Transfer clockwise the second yarn of South / right side to where the first yarn of South and left sides left.  Transfer clockwise the first yarn of North / right side that is inserted on top of the light blue yarn to where the second yarn of South / right side left.  This completes the first clockwise turn of baby brights ombre yarns. Turn the loom clockwise.

4) Light Blue – Hold the loom and transfer clockwise the first yarn of the North / right side to where the baby brights ombre yarn is inserted near the light blue yarn in the South side. This will serve as a guide to know that this will be the last yarn to complete the turn. Transfer clockwise the second yarn of the North / left side to where its first yarn left.  Transfer clockwise the first yarn of South / left side to the North side where its second yarn left. Transfer clockwise the second yarn of South / right side to where the first yarn of South / left side left.  Transfer clockwise the first yarn of North / right side that is inserted on top of the baby brights ombre yarn to where the second yarn of South / right side left.  This completes the first clockwise turn of  light blue yarns.  Pull the yarns at the bottom after all the complete turns of both yarn colors have finished. Be sure the yarns hanging at the bottom don’t get tangled with each other. Turn the loom clockwise.


5) Do the same procedure from # 3 to 4 till you reach the possible ends to make clockwise turns. Always check your work at the bottom side if the weaving is tightly or loosely done . (Note: In case you stop in the middle of weaving, just remember the yarn color on top of the other yarn color at the center is the last one that has been done already.)  After reaching the last round of weaving, remove the yarns carefully from the loom. Hold them together and tie a knot at the end of the last round of weaving. The tie weaved looks like this as shown in picture (g)


Making of a Tie (g)

Attaching the Buttons and Handles (2) – Light Blue

1) Upper Side / Back Side - Count the number of cross stitches to determine the middle area where to attach the handles.  Center both the handles with excess yarns in a cross position at the (sc) area only. Attach safety pins to both handles to keep them from moving. Cut 40 inches of yarn and insert into a yarn needle. Sew one fancy buttons at the center of both handles.  Run the yarn needle through the button twice and then through the edges of both handles to strengthen the hold.   Use the excess end yarns to tie and strengthen more the hold of the handles. Hide the excess yarns.  The outcome will look like as shown in picture (h).


Attaching the Buttons and Handles (h)


2) Bottom Side - Position the other ends of the handles 3 inches from both edges at the bottom side. Apply safety pins to keep them from moving. Sew only in the (sc) area. Starting at the right side, position the first shirt button where the button hole is and start sewing.  Run the yarn needle twice through every buttons to strengthen the hold.  Provide excess yarns, cut, and tie twice. Do the same procedure with the rest of the shirt buttons.  Hide the excess yarns. The outcome will look like as shown in picture (i).


Attaching the Buttons and Handles (i)

3) Upper Side / Front Side – Position 6 fancy buttons in between the cross stitches area.  As a guide, determine the equal spacing by counting the number of cross stitches for each button. Cut another 40 inches of yarn and insert into a yarn needle. Sew only in (sc) area.  Run the yarn needle twice through every buttons to strengthen the hold.  Sew  the  first fancy button on the front side.  Sew  the next fancy button and shirt button back to back. Provide excess yarns, cut, and tie twice. Sew the next two fancy buttons.  Provide excess yarns, cut, and tie twice. Sew again the next fancy and shirt buttons back to back. Do the same procedure with the last fancy button. Provide excess yarns, cut, and tie twice. Hide all  the excess yarns.  The outcome will look like as shown in picture (j).


Attaching the Buttons and Handles (j)

Inserting the Tie

Facing the front side, determine the center of the project by counting the number of (dc).  Using the crochet hook, insert one end of the tie at the center of two (dc).  Provide equal spacing as you insert the tie around the first and last rows of the (dc) area till you reach the center area again.  Double the tie of both ends.  Trim their ends.  


Crocheted Baby Bag Pack


Crocheted Baby Bag Pack (b)
Cuddling a baby is one of the nicest thing one can have in life.  It gives one a very special feeling about what makes being a mother complete.


video


The cutest baby in town has blue eyes
What are you doing, Alex? Are you having a problem?  Just concentrate and you will be done.  Don't get frustrated. He’s really cute and funny, isn’t he? (-.-)


video


Oh! Grandpa

After several months since he was born, my sister-in-law’s family had a chance to visit their youngest grandson.  What a wonderful, happy site to see him was having fun with his grandpa.  


video



Oh! Deer
Another wonderful site to see a young doe coming to one's front yard, not minding at all if there is somebody around, while the mother and son were enjoying time together under the sun.   

Tuesday, June 3, 2014

The Fruits of Our Labor-2013 (Harvests # 2)

WELCOME TO OUR COUNTRY LIVING

There is nothing more exciting and happy moment than when you see your plants growing and bearing fruits after lots of hard work everyday...


BLUE LAKE POLE BEAN PLANTS (with flower)
This is our first time to plant this kind of bean plant.  Look at how beautiful its flower is!  I was really amazed when I saw this and immediately took my camera to get a good shot of this beautiful, little flower.


BLUE LAKE POLE BEAN PLANTS

This kind of plant grows in a vine.  They are robust and grow like crazy upward.  It’s one of those vegetable plants in our garden that don’t easily die even during fall season or cold weather.  The Great Gardener set up four short rows of this kind of plant only.  


BLUE LAKE POLE BEANS
This plant is also called string beans in ordinary term because of its length.  I wasn’t able to take a picture of its harvests because the plants didn’t really bear many string beans unlike the Tender Pick Beans.  I could easily count them whenever I harvested them.  When you see them grow very long, dark green in color, and feel its seeds inside, then they are ready for harvest.  Don’t let them become so matured that its skin turns pale and wrinkled because they are not good to eat anymore.  


TENDER PICK BEAN PLANT (with flowers)
Now look at the flower of this Tender Pick Bean Plant for comparison.  It’s small and not as beautiful as  the flower of Blue Lake Pole Beans.  But this plant is very good in providing a good harvest. 


TENDER PICK BEAN PLANTS
Previously when I introduced this plant in our Garden 2013, they were just few inches tall.  The Great Gardener set up five rows of this kind of plant, but look how they grow crazy. They become bushy, but they don’t grow so tall.  That’s why I had to bend my back while I harvested them.  But before I go through the rows to harvest them, I used a long bamboo stick to poke them, so to drive away bugs, insects, or even snakes that there might be hiding in those bushes.  I’m afraid of snakes and I really saw again a small green snake that went through the bushy potato plants while I was passing by that area.  I didn’t harvest the potatoes, till the Welder came home and he did the harvesting by himself.  


TENDER PICK BEANS Harvests
Now I’m really talking good harvest here because I got lots of these green beans.  You can easily determine if they are ready for harvest by its color, size, and feel of the seeds inside.  Don’t let them become so matured that they are no longer fit to be eaten.  I stored lots of them in our chest freezer.  


AVALANCHE SNOW PEA PLANTS
This snow pea plants also grow in a vine and delicate because they don’t live long enough like other vegetable plants.  No wonder, this kind of vegetable is very expensive.  I don’t even see this plant being sold in Wal-Mart store in our place. 



SNOW PEAS Harvests
Aside from being a delicate plant,  it didn’t provide us good harvest.  This is another reason why this plant becomes so expensive to buy when there is scarcity of harvest.  It can easily be determined if they are ready for harvest by its size, color, and feel of the seeds inside, too.  I really like this vegetable because they taste very good and crispy when half cooked only.  Hey, I’m not playing favorites here (-.-)


BEET PLANTS
The Great Gardener told me that he really like this beet plant because he got a taste of it before when his mother previously cooked them. He plants only the kind of vegetables he likes eating.  He is the decision maker and I’m the care taker only.  Not all people do have a chance to get a taste of every food being sold in the grocery store.  There are people who are choosy and who aren’t.  Am I choosy? Nope. But something new to me makes me anxious what it really tastes like.  So he asked me to try canning the beets when they were ready for harvest already. 



BEETS Harvests
It took me longer to harvest them as compare with other vegetable plants.  But they were harvested earlier than the potato plants. These are tubers like the potatoes that need to grow its roots to become more fleshy before they are harvested. You have to try digging one side of the plant first to see if its roots are already big. Here are some harvests I got and though they weren’t so many I was able to can them.  It provided us five quart jars of beets.  Out of curiosity, I tasted it and the verdict – I like them because they taste like peanuts to me.  Oh my!  Why did I forget to take a picture of my canning these beets? (^.^)